Updated! with guide Glue Stick Slurry Impressions
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 8:41 am
Hey everyone! Im fairly new to the 3d printing world having only finished building my Rostock Max V2 about a month ago. This has been one of the best and most frustratingly fun hobbies Ive ever had lol. I just wanted to share my impression of something I haven't seen a whole lot of on here but am super impressed with so far. Ive been printing in only abs so far and as we can all attest to bed adhesion can be one of the more frustrating aspects at least it has been for me. I have tried different glue sticks, ive made abs slurry and upon reading a post from shapeshifter http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7145 I gave his glue stick slurry a try. I picked up a cheap 2 pack of disappearing purple glue sticks and a mason jar from the store to begin my testings. Basically all i did was emptied the glue stick into the mason jar then added water, next i microwaved it for about 30 seconds (without the metal lid on mind you lol), lastly put the lid back on and shook it til it was mostly dissolved. Then came the application and testing, I just heated up my bed to 85c, took a folded paper towel and applied an even coat over the printing surface. As this was my first use a went a little liberal with my application just to make sure. Went on really easy and dried clear as if nothing was on the bed unlike if i had just used a glue stick. Printed out a few pieces and to my surprise there was not separation from the bed! the parts popped off pretty easy without any damage to the tape on my bed. The nice thing that i have noticed so far is that no matter how much i apply the piece doesn't over stick to the bed like if i had applied too much abs slurry! Then came the true test that finished this morning. I did a 7 hour long abs print with zero warping or bed separation! This may not work in every case but so far every print i have done with it has turned out great so i wanted to share it with everyone that might have missed that post.
Reasons I love it
-cheap!
-clean
-so far reliable
-dont have to deal with acetone lol
-parts pop off the bed with a little force
-leaves a really smooth finish!
A guide to making it.
The supplies
-1 mason jar med size
-1 disappearing purple school glue stick (elmers)
-1/2 cup measuring cup.
-paper towel or a 2 inch sponge brush
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_164848.jpg[/img]
Step 1.
Add empty one glue stick into mason jar then add 1/2 cup water.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_165014.jpg[/img]
Step 2.
Microwave on high for 30 seconds (without metal lid on). WARNING GLASS AND LIQUID WILL BE HOT SO BE CAREFUL!
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_165130.jpg[/img]
Step 3.
At this point it should look similar to this.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_165234.jpg[/img]
Step 4.
Place lid back on mason jar and shake it for a little bit to help it dissolve in the water. I shook it for about a minute then let it sit for about a half hour before shaking it again for another minute.
It will be pretty foamy after you are done so i just took a plastic spoon and scooped up a little bit of the liquid then dumped it on the foam. You can lightly blow on them as well to help get rid of them.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_170204.jpg[/img]
Step 5.
Warm bed to printing temp. Then with a folded paper towel i just dipped it into the mixture and applied a few coats in a similar fassion as i would if i was applying the glue stick regularly. (wiping across from left to right then top to botton in nice even coats.) WARNING YOUR PRINT BED WILL BE HOT SO TAKE SPECIAL CARE AS TO NOT BURN YOURSELF. If your bed is as printing temp (mine was at 85c when i applied) you will notice that it dries very quickly and clearly.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_171058.jpg[/img]
Step 6.
Print! I apply a coat right before each time i print. Because of the way it goes on i dont need to clean off the build plate/tape after each print to get good print adhesion.
The results!
So far i havent experienced any warping or bed adhesion problems. When finished the parts just sort of pop off the plate with a little force but with no visible residue left on the part.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_193257.jpg[/img]
This is just the formula that i have been using, i havent really experimented using more/less water cause it worked really well for me with this first mixure.
If you havent tried this yet give it a shot and let me know the results Im really curious. I hope this post helps even just 1 person then i will be happy cause part warping is no fun lol
Reasons I love it
-cheap!
-clean
-so far reliable
-dont have to deal with acetone lol
-parts pop off the bed with a little force
-leaves a really smooth finish!
A guide to making it.
The supplies
-1 mason jar med size
-1 disappearing purple school glue stick (elmers)
-1/2 cup measuring cup.
-paper towel or a 2 inch sponge brush
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_164848.jpg[/img]
Step 1.
Add empty one glue stick into mason jar then add 1/2 cup water.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_165014.jpg[/img]
Step 2.
Microwave on high for 30 seconds (without metal lid on). WARNING GLASS AND LIQUID WILL BE HOT SO BE CAREFUL!
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_165130.jpg[/img]
Step 3.
At this point it should look similar to this.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_165234.jpg[/img]
Step 4.
Place lid back on mason jar and shake it for a little bit to help it dissolve in the water. I shook it for about a minute then let it sit for about a half hour before shaking it again for another minute.
It will be pretty foamy after you are done so i just took a plastic spoon and scooped up a little bit of the liquid then dumped it on the foam. You can lightly blow on them as well to help get rid of them.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_170204.jpg[/img]
Step 5.
Warm bed to printing temp. Then with a folded paper towel i just dipped it into the mixture and applied a few coats in a similar fassion as i would if i was applying the glue stick regularly. (wiping across from left to right then top to botton in nice even coats.) WARNING YOUR PRINT BED WILL BE HOT SO TAKE SPECIAL CARE AS TO NOT BURN YOURSELF. If your bed is as printing temp (mine was at 85c when i applied) you will notice that it dries very quickly and clearly.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_171058.jpg[/img]
Step 6.
Print! I apply a coat right before each time i print. Because of the way it goes on i dont need to clean off the build plate/tape after each print to get good print adhesion.
The results!
So far i havent experienced any warping or bed adhesion problems. When finished the parts just sort of pop off the plate with a little force but with no visible residue left on the part.
[img]http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz236/djfavata/IMG_20160202_193257.jpg[/img]
This is just the formula that i have been using, i havent really experimented using more/less water cause it worked really well for me with this first mixure.
If you havent tried this yet give it a shot and let me know the results Im really curious. I hope this post helps even just 1 person then i will be happy cause part warping is no fun lol