Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Preface: I believe I've done what I can to find the answer, but to no avail. So, I apologize if this has already been resolved and this is merely a matter of my search-fu failing me. On to the question...

I'm stilli in the process of assembling my (awesome) Rostock MAX kit and am just past the point of installing a recently acquired Onyx HPB. I've got a ways to go before I can print, but I'd like to get a build surface sorted so I can hit the ground running when it's time. I've read one solution is painters tape, but I'm wondering if something like this would work: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=43407

If not, I'm curious to know what other folks are planning on using (borosilicate glass, Kapton...) and your source(s).

Thanks!

I just ran my first large print on my H1 using some polycarbonate from Mendards with good success. It was .095 thick.

The next best so far has been the green "Frog Tape" on glass, but I was having difficulty getting the first layer to stick. I got not get Blue painters tape to work at all.

The polycarbonate did warp a bit. I had the bed set at 105C and the first layer of ABS at 260 with remaining layers at 245. The first layer melted into the poly in a couple of places, hence the need to reduce heated end temperature. I have a fair amount of shrink at the base of the part because of excess temperature as well. I'm going to reduce extruder temperatures to the 245/235 range and see if I get good adhesion to the bed and less part warpage.

beyondesign wrote:Preface: I believe I've done what I can to find the answer, but to no avail. So, I apologize if this has already been resolved and this is merely a matter of my search-fu failing me. On to the question...

I'm stilli in the process of assembling my (awesome) Rostock MAX kit and am just past the point of installing a recently acquired Onyx HPB. I've got a ways to go before I can print, but I'd like to get a build surface sorted so I can hit the ground running when it's time. I've read one solution is painters tape, but I'm wondering if something like this would work: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=43407

If not, I'm curious to know what other folks are planning on using (borosilicate glass, Kapton...) and your source(s).

Thanks!

I wouldn't print onto blue painters tape directly on the heated bed, all the printed circuit board ones deform when they heat and depending on the design either rise or fall in the middle.
That polycarbonate sheet would probably be fine, but I have to wonder how flat it will stay. I unfortunately destroyed the polycarbonate sheet I got from seemecnc, so I didn't get a chance to really decide if it stays flat enough.
Glass is usually used (with various types of tape on it) because it's cheap and flat, however cutting glass for an onyx bed might be tricky, and I'm pretty sure most hardware stores wouldn't do it for you.

Thanks for the replies and info, guys. I've decided the first stop will be local glass shops, setting my sights on Corning/Pyrex/borosilicate. Failing that, I'll try and source some polycarbonate. I'll be sure to post my experience(s)

I tried the Monokote on glass a couple of days with even better results then the polycarbonate. I ran the bed at 90C and got good adhesion, but still easy enough to remove easily with damage to the part or Monokote with a putty knife. It gives the bottom of the printed part a very nice glossy surface.

I picked the Monokote up at the local hobby shop. It's much less expensive than Kapton tape.

I've seen others say that automotive window tint on glass works equally well.

aaah, the old monokote trick. One thing to note, the 'self adhesive' strips of monokote never worked well. I really think those are just sign vinyl in the corresponding monokote colors. Really needs to be the old iron on style monokote (Tooooo many memories of covering PT-40's and a few pattern planes and combat's)