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Nylocke wrote:Looks like eagle is a 1337 H4X0R, H4X me now

Could you say this once again, in English. I am not good at internet hieroglyphics.

OMW_Jun wrote:

dtgriscom wrote:

OMW_Jun wrote:I just got to printing the fan mounts linked in the latest assembly manual but download for the blower fan shroud doesn't contain a .stl, it may need to be re-uploaded. The peek fan mount printed great though!

I also had trouble downloading the layer fan. There's a "Download" button at the bottom of the "johnoly99" column, with a reveal arrow next to it. If you click the button itself then you get a bad download (it seems to be some sort of zipped version of the web page structure?). However, if you click the reveal arrow, and then click the "Download" button that it reveals, then you get the proper zipped STL.


Confusing...
Dan

Thanks!

Try this one:

http://repables.com/r/200/

The duct I specify is a better choice.

g.

geneb wrote:The duct I specify is a better choice.

I don't doubt it, but it's strange that the main "Download" button is broken for the fan you point to, but works on the fan rootboy suggested. (A mistake while uploading?) You may want to note the downloading problem in the manual.

I also don't know how to contact whomever runs Repables.com to report the problem. There's no "About Us" link I can find, and the "Feedback" link leads to a blank page.

Very strange,
Dan

dtgriscom wrote: I also don't know how to contact whomever runs Repables.com to report the problem. There's no "About Us" link I can find, and the "Feedback" link leads to a blank page.

It's Evan from SeeMeCNC. Repables is their site, but it's not branded with their name all over it because they wanted anyone and everyone to use it.

The download issue is a new one - it worked when I originally downloaded the file. I'm not going to note what's likely a temporary issue in the manual.

Many edits were done today and I found Tonkabot's missing chapter. *Evil Laugh*

g.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

Nylocke wrote:Looks like eagle is a 1337 H4X0R, H4X me now

Could you say this once again, in English. I am not good at internet hieroglyphics.

That was "looks like eagle is a leet (elite) haxor (hacker), hax (hack) me now (laughing face)"

Nylocke wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:

Nylocke wrote:Looks like eagle is a 1337 H4X0R, H4X me now

Could you say this once again, in English. I am not good at internet hieroglyphics.

That was "looks like eagle is a leet (elite) haxor (hacker), hax (hack) me now (laughing face)"

You are one funny dude! I'm glad you're on the forum, you cheer me up now and then.

dtgriscom wrote: Page 133: You should specify which way effector platform should be installed (with the SEEMECNC text pointing down, right?)

How big of a problem is this? My nuts were spinning when I was trying to tighten the screw and I couldn't get in there very well with a wrench. After reading this I'm wondering if I mounted it upside down, I never saw anything that said SEEMECNC. I can check when I get home.

Pingel wrote:

dtgriscom wrote: Page 133: You should specify which way effector platform should be installed (with the SEEMECNC text pointing down, right?)

How big of a problem is this? My nuts were spinning when I was trying to tighten the screw and I couldn't get in there very well with a wrench. After reading this I'm wondering if I mounted it upside down, I never saw anything that said SEEMECNC. I can check when I get home.

My guess is that it matters somewhat, and I guessed that the "SEEMECNC" embossing should point down.

I do remember using a socket wrench there, which may have made it easier.

(If I sound certain, then I'm not communicating very well )

Dan

dtgriscom wrote:

Pingel wrote:

dtgriscom wrote: Page 133: You should specify which way effector platform should be installed (with the SEEMECNC text pointing down, right?)

How big of a problem is this? My nuts were spinning when I was trying to tighten the screw and I couldn't get in there very well with a wrench. After reading this I'm wondering if I mounted it upside down, I never saw anything that said SEEMECNC. I can check when I get home.

My guess is that it matters somewhat, and I guessed that the "SEEMECNC" embossing should point down.

I do remember using a socket wrench there, which may have made it easier.

(If I sound certain, then I'm not communicating very well )

Dan

All the quotes!


Anyway, like I said, I never saw the logo but I do remember one side having a lip and that is the one I have facing the ground. Hopefully it's right!

Really nice guide.

For anyone interested in sourcing the optional connectors for a lower price, you can find the product sheet here: http://www.digikey.com/Web%20Export/Sup ... directed=1

You can search Digikey, Mouser, Jameco, etc using the series number. To be honest, I found the prices for these to be insane. Digikey's prices for the housings are fine, nearly reasonable, but the price of the crimp pins from them are even higher. Jameco seemed the most reasonable. I would personally suggest sourcing the crimp pins from China if you have the patience, but lets be honest, you don't, and neither do I! . You should be able to pick up about 100 of each for a few bucks though, if you did.

I ended up buying the JST housings and pins from Value Hobby for $1 ea for a set of 10. http://www.valuehobby.com/accessories/c ... -sets.html and http://www.valuehobby.com/accessories/c ... -sets.html. Shipping was about $4, so $6 shipped. Note that these aren't gold plated though.

It kind of kills me paying the $26 total I did for a few sets of connectors though. Pretty much the most overpriced purchase I've made all year.

geneb wrote:The duct I specify is a better choice.

g.

Not if your file doesn't unzip. LOL!

rootboy wrote:

geneb wrote:The duct I specify is a better choice.

g.

Not if your file doesn't unzip. LOL!

To be fair, the .zip file on the site is fine. The structure and file name are off (looks like the auto zip creator on the site is including absolute file path). But the file is correct. If you rename 13945846526265_8647c144edd1527e0955b65ba63c7ecf to NEW2-Guanu-Blower-Fan-Holder-Shroud.stl it will work fine.

Though, it is much easier to just click the download arrow and get it named correctly.

Howler wrote:

rootboy wrote:

geneb wrote:The duct I specify is a better choice.

g.

Not if your file doesn't unzip. LOL!

To be fair, the .zip file on the site is fine. The structure and file name are off (looks like the auto zip creator on the site is including absolute file path). But the file is correct. If you rename 13945846526265_8647c144edd1527e0955b65ba63c7ecf to NEW2-Guanu-Blower-Fan-Holder-Shroud.stl it will work fine.

Though, it is much easier to just click the download arrow and get it named correctly.

Thanks! I was getting a "This file is invalid for use as the following: Certificate Trust List." error message on this PC when I would drill down to where the file actually resides and extract it from there. I'll bet that if I were to try it on my home computer, which has the software loaded for it, it would work just fine.

My apologies, I stand corrected.

Hello.

I have to assemble my Max 2 now.
And my first question is, if its usefull to stick some parts together with glue, I mean its layered woodmaterial, if you choose a coat soluble glue this could increase the stiffness extremely.
Okay it is not helpfull for all parts because of maintanance, but maybe it is better ?!

Best regards.

Elysio wrote:Hello.

I have to assemble my Max 2 now.
And my first question is, if its usefull to stick some parts together with glue, I mean its layered woodmaterial, if you choose a coat soluble glue this could increase the stiffness extremely.
Okay it is not helpfull for all parts because of maintanance, but maybe it is better ?!

Best regards.

There's no need to use glue, it's actually very rigid once assembled. Also the fact, like you said, that you may want / need to disassemble or detach parts for whatever reason (upgrade, maintenance, etc), so not a very good idea to glue anything down.

Just reached the section for wiring the endstop switches. I'm a bit confused... why did we bend the switch terminals in earlier steps... it makes it much much more difficult to wire the switches. I had to bent them back a bit to get the terminals to fit. Am I missing or overlooking something?

atoff wrote:Just reached the section for wiring the endstop switches. I'm a bit confused... why did we bend the switch terminals in earlier steps... it makes it much much more difficult to wire the switches. I had to bent them back a bit to get the terminals to fit. Am I missing or overlooking something?

Sounds like a good suggestion to me. Getting the terminals on was a bit of a bear for me, using the 90 degree bend. Perhaps using a 60 degree bend?


Dan

dtgriscom wrote:

atoff wrote:Just reached the section for wiring the endstop switches. I'm a bit confused... why did we bend the switch terminals in earlier steps... it makes it much much more difficult to wire the switches. I had to bent them back a bit to get the terminals to fit. Am I missing or overlooking something?

Sounds like a good suggestion to me. Getting the terminals on was a bit of a bear for me, using the 90 degree bend. Perhaps using a 60 degree bend?


Dan

Mine are at about that now... I figure the bend is to keep the terminals from yanking off for whatever reason, but being that the fit is so tight, and there's really nothing tugging on the wire, not really concerned. Or, perhaps bend them closer to the 90 or 60deg AFTER connecting them.

Received the new version of the heated build plate (one with the SeeMeCNC eyes on it) with my Rostock V2 that came the other day. The connections are little different than what's in the manual. Could you provide a little help with that?
Thanks!

geolupulus wrote:Received the new version of the heated build plate (one with the SeeMeCNC eyes on it) with my Rostock V2 that came the other day. The connections are little different than what's in the manual. Could you provide a little help with that?

Would you be able to post a picture of the terminal area (the bottom, where the connections would be made)?


Thanks,
Dan

You hear that noise? That's me facepalming. *sigh*

I'll yell at John to send me a unit to document.

I'll revise the manual with regard to bending the switch leads as well.

g.

dtgriscom wrote: Would you be able to post a picture of the terminal area (the bottom, where the connections would be made)?

I will take a photo and post when I get home tonight! Thanks

dtgriscom wrote: Would you be able to post a picture of the terminal area (the bottom, where the connections would be made)?

album: https://www.dropbox.com/sc/kub3w362uezglf7/zr959_EweL

Photos of the V3 rostock max heated bed!