Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

geolupulus wrote:Photos of the V3 rostock max heated bed!

OK, that's different, but it makes sense. Here's my guess as to the connections:

- The two large square pads are for the main heat input

- The pair of small oval pads near the edge, near a small hole through the surface, are for the power LED

- The second pair of small oval pads that are near the main heat pads are for a current limiting resistor for the LED (note that the resistor will be in series with the LED)

- The two parallel pairs of pads nearest the center hole are utility pads, connecting to nothing. The thermistor installed in the center hole is soldered to the pair closest to the hole, and then you attach the thermistor wires that go to the RAMBo to the adjacent pair.


... do I get a prize?
D

Thanks a lot dtgriscom! I have taken your advice and soldered as you suggested. I took plenty of photos and will upload them if everything checks out when I complete the build and turn the printer on!

New heated bed notes: (Based on differences in the old manual and our experience installing the new heated bed last night) The manual showed to rout the wiring out and over and around the snowflake mounting plate, now that the wiring connections are toward the center of the heated bed, it is much neater to just rout the wires straight down, through the center of the snowflake and then into the base.

Also, make sure the heated bed is aligned correctly before you start screwing it down, we didn't initially realize there were 12 holes on the bed and had to unmount the heated bed because the LED was between the bottom of the bed and the top of the snowflake. Luckily there are only 6 mounting locations so we just rotated the bed 30 degrees and it was good to go.

quick and crude, but since the new heated bed is like the orion one, I made a pic to help people with what wires go where on the bed...

Guanu

This new design is clean looking compared to the previous design. That picture was enough to figure things out. Thanks!

guanu wrote:quick and crude, but since the new heated bed is like the orion one, I made a pic to help people with what wires go where on the bed...

Well, I'm a bit confused by your picture, presumably of an Orion bed. The "thermistor" pads clearly have traces leading to them from the edge of the bed, which contrasts with the updated MAX bed, which showed none. If those traces are attached to another circuit on the bed then my above guess is wrong: they aren't just isolated utility soldering locations.

... anyone know the truth?


Dan

Gene, I just started this build and I can't thank you enough for all the advice and thorough instructions found in the guide. Truly a labor of love I'm sure.

I noticed on page 29 that you mentioned stripping 3/4" off the 4 black and 4 yellow wires. Personally, unless I'm doing something wrong, that left me with almost double what I really needed to shove into the Rambo connector. I ended up trimming them a bit and think 3/8" - 1/2" untwisted would be plenty. I put a caliper in the Rambo connector and mine is .25" (1/4").

I know this is my obsessive compulsive self kicking in, but I'm also making sure I'm not missing something on this step. Please enlighten me if so.

One more thing, I think the image on 29 should be labeled 3-12 and the reference to image 4-13 should actually be 3-13?

dtgriscom wrote:

guanu wrote:quick and crude, but since the new heated bed is like the orion one, I made a pic to help people with what wires go where on the bed...

Well, I'm a bit confused by your picture, presumably of an Orion bed. The "thermistor" pads clearly have traces leading to them from the edge of the bed, which contrasts with the updated MAX bed, which showed none. If those traces are attached to another circuit on the bed then my above guess is wrong: they aren't just isolated utility soldering locations.

... anyone know the truth?


Dan

well considering I work at seeme, I know the truth... that pic was from an orion bed we dont currently use, and thoes traces should be ignored since they arent used, thats why I labeled what is used where, and since it had the silkscreen for + and -, I thought it would be easier.. so ignore the traces that arent used and not labeled from the pic...

Guanu

Is the heated bed sensitive to which terminals are used as + or -? I made the circuit as shown but everything is reversed. Will that still work?

geolupulus wrote:Is the heated bed sensitive to which terminals are used as + or -? I made the circuit as shown but everything is reversed. Will that still work?

It will work fine in the Northern Hemisphere, but in the Southern Hemisphere the machine will tend to flip over.




Not.

No problem: the bed heater isn't sensitive to polarity.


Dan

dtgriscom wrote:

geolupulus wrote:Is the heated bed sensitive to which terminals are used as + or -? I made the circuit as shown but everything is reversed. Will that still work?

It will work fine in the Northern Hemisphere, but in the Southern Hemisphere the machine will tend to flip over.




Not.

No problem: the bed heater isn't sensitive to polarity.


Dan

That was a good one Dan!

dtgriscom wrote: It will work fine in the Northern Hemisphere, but in the Southern Hemisphere the machine will tend to flip over.
Not.
No problem: the bed heater isn't sensitive to polarity.

Haha good one. Thats's great, thanks Dan! Never soldered anything before the heated bed the other day. This build has been really fun for me.

geolupulus wrote:

dtgriscom wrote: It will work fine in the Northern Hemisphere, but in the Southern Hemisphere the machine will tend to flip over.
Not.
No problem: the bed heater isn't sensitive to polarity.

Haha good one. Thats's great, thanks Dan! Never soldered anything before the heated bed the other day. This build has been really fun for me.

One thing to make sure: if you reverse the polarity on the bed, make sure you also reverse the polarity on the LED.


Dan

Okay, I got the inner plate direction of the cheapskate wrong on all 3 assemblies. The reason I got it wrong is because I thought the manual was telling me that I should line up the inner plate with the eyes pointing to the right, then attach the plastic piece to the front of the inner piece in that alignment. I did not get it that the plastic piece would face inward. It makes sense thinking about it, but I guess it is 50/50 90/10. Just a pain pulling those t-nuts out...

Now, does the direction really matter? Could it work the other way?

Demolishun wrote:Okay, I got the inner plate direction of the cheapskate wrong on all 3 assemblies. The reason I got it wrong is because I thought the manual was telling me that I should line up the inner plate with the eyes pointing to the right, then attach the plastic piece to the front of the inner piece in that alignment. I did not get it that the plastic piece would face inward. It makes sense thinking about it, but I guess it is 50/50 90/10. Just a pain pulling those t-nuts out...

Now, does the direction really matter? Could it work the other way?

I've had one of my cheapskates on backwards since I built mine because I didn't want to mess up the surface by moving the T-nuts and leaving holes visible in the front surface of the skate.

I haven't seen any issues - aside from the logo I believe they're symmetrical.

Well I just switched them back. Was not that hard to reverse them again. Thanks for the info. I will remember when I get to building more of these. Of course I understand a new bearing assembly is in the works.

Hi,

What do you think about adding some grease to the u-joints (chapter 14, page 145). After some prints I got a chirping sound and added some silicon grease. Now it works perfectly. I also notices that there was already a small black rings on the u-joints aluminium parts from the plastic arms.

Another thing: I had problems with the shipped SD-Card. My prints stopped after some time. Is that a common problem? If so then I recommend to write in the manual to through the card away (or mark it as not appropriate for the printer). A new card is cheaper (and almost everybody has one) in comparison to the trouble finding out why the printer stops etc.

Just my 2 cents.

dgriff wrote:I didn't want to mess up the surface by moving the T-nuts and leaving holes visible in the front surface of the skate.

The white plastic bushings on the belt clamps will cover up the t-nut marks.

dgriff wrote:I haven't seen any issues - aside from the logo I believe they're symmetrical.

They're actually not symmetrical. You'll notice that the hole spacing is farther apart on one side then the other. The 4 bearing holes make a trapezoid and not a square.

Jimustanguitar wrote:

dgriff wrote:I haven't seen any issues - aside from the logo I believe they're symmetrical.

They're actually not symmetrical. You'll notice that the hole spacing is farther apart on one side then the other. The 4 bearing holes make a trapezoid and not a square.

But, they function identically when they're flipped, correct? (I think that was the question behind the statement.)


Dan

dtgriscom wrote:

Jimustanguitar wrote:

dgriff wrote:I haven't seen any issues - aside from the logo I believe they're symmetrical.

They're actually not symmetrical. You'll notice that the hole spacing is farther apart on one side then the other. The 4 bearing holes make a trapezoid and not a square.

But, they function identically when they're flipped, correct? (I think that was the question behind the statement.)


Dan

Maybe not, I think that you want the cam adjuster inside the span of the fixed rollers. This arrangement should load the fixed rollers more uniformly when the cheap skates are adjusted.

nitewatchman

Jimustanguitar wrote:They're actually not symmetrical. You'll notice that the hole spacing is farther apart on one side then the other. The 4 bearing holes make a trapezoid and not a square.

Ya, that's true. I just meant that the centering of the delta arm mounting bracket on the skates were symmetrical, so even if you had the plates on backwards, it wouldn't change the positioning of the center of the arm.

flexman wrote:Hi,

What do you think about adding some grease to the u-joints (chapter 14, page 145). After some prints I got a chirping sound and added some silicon grease. Now it works perfectly. I also notices that there was already a small black rings on the u-joints aluminium parts from the plastic arms.

I have to second this. Recently completed a Revison 2 Rostock. My axles were screaming, they squeaked so much after about the first 30 hours of printing. I searched the forums and found that SEEME had suggested to spray with PTFE (Teflon) powder lubricant. So I took the U joint assemblies apart (all 6) and sprayed the axles and ujoints with teflon powder ($5 from Dome Hepot). This ALSO kept the axles from walking out of their proper home, another issue that I had (almost lost a couple prints this way, the hot end wanted to dissemble itself) and that issue has been documented in the forum here.

I have a question about the Onyx Headed Bed, Rev3. in the Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide.
The kit came with 2 LEDs an 2 Resistors.
I installed the LEDs.
Where does the second Resistor go?
It’s not in the manual.
I also have a picture of the bed.
Can you help me?

Thanks,
Ron

second resistor goes where its labeled "RES" just like for the heated bed LED.... the resistor goes from the RES pad to the + pad.. and then the + and - for hot end led go to the hotend wiring on the rambo for the hotend... (with the rambo green screw terminals at the top, the first 2 spots are for the hotend, first - then +... just add the wires from the hot end led of the bed to the wires from the hotend to the rambo... this will have that LED light up when the hotend gets power)

Guanu

I suppose there's no point in yelling at you guys *again* for releasing completely different hardware before I can document it..

*sigh*

g.