Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

SanjayM wrote:Sanjay from E3D here, the threaded couplers use a 1/8th BSPP thread which is a very common standard pneumatic fitting thread.

Thanks Sanjay! Got my shipping info and now I wait excitedly and decide on the style of mounting that I want to print.....

Sanjay, I kinda wish I had ordered 3 of the fans instead of just two, I'll probably just go into an electronics store here or look on ebay for a third - do you have some specifics for them so I can match the exact model? I like things to match

Email me if you'd rather - I'm the one with the specific address request in the notes field - instructing you to NOT send it to my USA address

Thanks!

626Pilot wrote:The Trick Laser mount should work fine. If you want to use the nicer PTF connectors that come with a Bowden E3D, one of the J-head mounting plates would work. I based my design on the Trick Laser mount (which I also have) because I wanted to get away from using the stock PTF connectors, which are less reliable.

I have tried various mounts for the bowden style E3D and yours is the best of the bunch. Thanks for making it available to everyone.

Eaglezsoar wrote: I have tried various mounts for the bowden style E3D and yours is the best of the bunch. Thanks for making it available to everyone.

Thanks! I copied ideas from only the best designs! It wouldn't have occurred to me that pressing two plates together would actually hold the thing as firm as it does, but it does.

Just upgraded to the V5 from e3d and ....The best head ever - my prints just got much much better

altarke wrote:Just upgraded to the V5 from e3d and ....The best head ever - my prints just got much much better

Did you upgrade from the stock hotend supplied by SeeMeCNC?

Eaglezsoar wrote:

626Pilot wrote:The Trick Laser mount should work fine. If you want to use the nicer PTF connectors that come with a Bowden E3D, one of the J-head mounting plates would work. I based my design on the Trick Laser mount (which I also have) because I wanted to get away from using the stock PTF connectors, which are less reliable.

I have tried various mounts for the bowden style E3D and yours is the best of the bunch. Thanks for making it available to everyone.

Mine is just a laser cut acrylic version of your's as well with some additional size around the holes to ensure it's not going to snap. Works great.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

altarke wrote:Just upgraded to the V5 from e3d and ....The best head ever - my prints just got much much better

Did you upgrade from the stock hotend supplied by SeeMeCNC?

Yes I did. for quite some time I was always blamin g myself of doing a lousy job (mis)calibrating my MAX. I think by now I can calibrate the MAX blind folded, that is how many times I run by this calibration procedure. It was always messing up my print, things like head collisions with the PLA, not sticking to the bed - just all king of nasties I blamed myself for either building the MAX wrong or just not having it cal correctly. Well the minute I placed the head on the effector and run a quick height calibration (not even a full calibration - just the height, I have to admit I was impatient) and started to print I noticed clean and clear lines I had not seen before - it was then very clear to me I done something right.

Get it U will not regret it!!!!!

I'm glad the E3D is working so well for you. In all fairness to SeeMeCNC there are hundreds of people using the original hotends without problems.
In your case you may have had a nozzle that was smaller than indicated, PTFE tube problems within the hotend or a different problem. I'm glad that
the E3D worked so well for you.

Eaglezsoar wrote:I'm glad the E3D is working so well for you. In all fairness to SeeMeCNC there are hundreds of people using the original hotends without problems.
In your case you may have had a nozzle that was smaller than indicated, PTFE tube problems within the hotend or a different problem. I'm glad that
the E3D worked so well for you.

Well, everything is possible...

I am still struggling with the PLA lifting up at print time. There are times it is more severe then other (my thinking is the ambient temp, perhaps), don't know why is will sometimes happen other time not....

altarke wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:I'm glad the E3D is working so well for you. In all fairness to SeeMeCNC there are hundreds of people using the original hotends without problems.
In your case you may have had a nozzle that was smaller than indicated, PTFE tube problems within the hotend or a different problem. I'm glad that
the E3D worked so well for you.

Well, everything is possible...

I am still struggling with the PLA lifting up at print time. There are times it is more severe then other (my thinking is the ambient temp, perhaps), don't know why is will sometimes happen other time not....

Have you tried hair spray or glue sticks on the glass before printing? Some of my prints stick so tight using hair spray I've had to use wood chisel to get them off the glass.
I do not recommend the use of wood chisels I'm just trying to explain how well they stick.

I am getting great results with just wiping it clean with rubbing alcohol beforehand.

I used hairspray for awhile but it stinks and it gets all over the place.

These days I use Elmer's school glue sticks: http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Washable-A ... l+glue+box

That's a box with 30 of them for about 12 dollars... enough to last at least a year even if you print every single day. It washes off in the sink pretty easily and dries fast enough even without heat.

A hobby knife (pen knife) and a 4-6" putty knife (spatula) are a good way to get pieces off the build surface. I also have a small hard rubber mallet that I use to knock off tall things.

626Pilot wrote:I used hairspray for awhile but it stinks and it gets all over the place.

These days I use Elmer's school glue sticks: http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Washable-A ... l+glue+box

That's a box with 30 of them for about 12 dollars... enough to last at least a year even if you print every single day. It washes off in the sink pretty easily and dries fast enough even without heat.

A hobby knife (pen knife) and a 4-6" putty knife (spatula) are a good way to get pieces off the build surface. I also have a small hard rubber mallet that I use to knock off tall things.

Your message make me laugh. I thought I was the only one who used putty knifes and such to remove prints from the bed. Some have stuck so well I've had to use a sharpened
putty knife and the rubber hammer to get them off.

Ive used several putty knifes, as well as various fixed and retract razor blades. The putty knifes work the best, but sometimes I need a razor blade to get an edge up a bit.

buy a million pack of these razor blades from harbor freight and print out a few of these

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34481

bubbasnow wrote:buy a million pack of these razor blades from harbor freight and print out a few of these

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34481

I think you could find anything. Neat idea though, I"ll print one out and see how the fit is.

*knives



g.

geneb wrote:*knives



g.

You are probably right, if that thing breaks I can see some nasty cuts.

A good "artist's" palette knife. Works great! Not very sharp, really thin, and strong.

http://www.techniedge.com/products/17_hobby_blade.html

This is what I use...

MSURunner wrote:http://www.techniedge.com/products/17_hobby_blade.html

This is what I use...

Those would be perfect for working under the print without damaging it. I didn't know they made that kind of blade, thanks for the info.

MSURunner wrote:I am getting great results with just wiping it clean with rubbing alcohol beforehand.

I use acetone and NO I never had them stick so strong to the glass.

altarke wrote:

MSURunner wrote:I am getting great results with just wiping it clean with rubbing alcohol beforehand.

I use acetone and NO I never had them stick so strong to the glass.

Most of mine don't stick so strong to the glass either but there have been a couple where I must have used to much glue stick or hair spray where I've had to knock them off with a
hammer and I was worried I was going to pull a chunk of glass off with the part. It doesn't happen often but it has happened. Something with that tapered edge could come in handy.

I have had some of my best results with a cheap stamped, serrated steak knife. The cheap ones are usually stamped, and have the bevel only on one side. The serrations allow for gradually getting under the part without the friction of a lot of surface area.

Single sided bevel is key.

My e3d hot end arrived 5 minutes ago!
Thanks to Sanjay for including some yummy haribo lollies!!

I'm excited to get it all running... Just as I was getting the stock hot end to run the way I wanted :/ (I will be posting my calibration journey on this soon.)

Also, Sanjay, I'm stoked that the hot end comes with a fan, since I was lamenting only ordering 2 extras - with the included 1 it gives me 3 identical so I'm happy!