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They come with the Onyx but not the borosilicate glass.

mhackney wrote:They come with the Onyx but not the borosilicate glass.

thanks

could you recommend some spare parts to buy also, that I should keep handy.

i added extra thermistors, heat resistors. anything else that I might need?

The only thing you really need to have extra is some 2mm ID and 4mm ID Teflon tubing. These sometimes get burnt or distorted. Other than that you not really need anything else extra. I have not had to replace the heat resistor or thermistors on my other printers and one of them has at least 500 hrs of print time on it.

will do on the teflon tubing

mhackney wrote:That's probably because it is a one of a kind. He does not appear to be making these in quantity to resell. If you are not getting answers to your questions, then the prudent thing to do is move on.

I have to disagree with you on this one, the website lists these for sale.

Well, I finally decided to give this machine a try. Placed my order tonight. I guess I'll be on the forums a lot now looking for tips and tricks. I will especially need it for the calibration when the time comes.

I think my ultimate decision on purchasing was the unique design and from some of the photos I've seen; looks like it can have nice prints once calibrated correctly.

so here starts my journey...

cambo3d wrote:I have to disagree with you on this one, the website lists these for sale.

Which website are you looking at?

http://tricklaser.com/Rostock-MAX-Custo ... LK-BLU.htm

This is a Custom Rostock MAX, COMPLETE ASSEMBLED MACHINE [...]

aehM_Key wrote:

cambo3d wrote:I have to disagree with you on this one, the website lists these for sale.

Which website are you looking at?

http://tricklaser.com/Rostock-MAX-Custo ... LK-BLU.htm

This is a Custom Rostock MAX, COMPLETE ASSEMBLED MACHINE [...]

yes thats the site i was talking about but I've already decided on the seemecnc kit.

Hey all, john here. Thought I'd pop in. Tricklaser.com is our friend BvanDieponbos on here's website. He helped us start the Rostock MAX project! He's going to be offering up ALL KINDS of cool hop-ups and 'aftermarket performance parts' for the Rostock MAX. The blue Tron themed kit is his son Eric's, who also just so happens to work for us here at the shop! If you've bought a kit in the last couple months, odds are, he packed it for you!

Stay tuned for more creative ways to bring assembled machines to those with less time to build!

Not that i want to hijack the thread, but do you think they'll offer a round aluminum plate to go on the Onyx !? Thank you .

Schneider, I am in pretty good contact with SeeMeCNC and I don't think they have immediate plans. But I do, I am making up a batch right now in fact. Most of them are already spoken for. Let me know if you would like to reserve one. You can get more info on my site: http://www.3dfabricationworks.com/store.html
I'll have to check on shipping to Montreal but I can send it first class there and it shouldn't be much more than the US Priority.

Regards,
Michael

I was thinking I might make up and aluminium plate for the round Onyx heated bed. I'll post a pic later.

mhackney wrote:Schneider, I am in pretty good contact with SeeMeCNC and I don't think they have immediate plans. But I do, I am making up a batch right now in fact. Most of them are already spoken for. Let me know if you would like to reserve one. You can get more info on my site: http://www.3dfabricationworks.com/store.html
I'll have to check on shipping to Montreal but I can send it first class there and it shouldn't be much more than the US Priority.

Regards,
Michael

Many many apoligies, I didn't fully read your post and didn't see you were going to offer these plates. I do not want to step on toes so I will withdraw my offer in the spirit of being fair.
Again sorry about that Micheal, I would delete that post if I could.

Gord

I'm gonna mill my own using the files from the wiki page. Just waiting for the material to get here. Along with my kit but Schneider, i'm not sure why you posted that here.
edit: nevermind I think you were referring to tricklaser guys. would be nice if they did offer it. I would have bought it already.

@Flateric, no worries post away. I am actually going to post the DXF and a PDF file for the aluminum heat dissipator design on my blog sometime this week.

@cambo3D, don't forget the cutout for the electronics pad. It took me a couple of trials to get that right.

how far in do i need to mill off to clear the electronics pad? I don't have my kit yet to do measurements.

I'll post the DXF this week like I said. I need to add all the measurements and 1 adjustment.

I had not forgotten that, but the bigger question I am pondering is should I hard anodize it or not. I think I'll just have to try it both ways. I have a sneaky suspicion it might be the way to go making the aluminium sticky for the ABS when hot and sort of none stick once cooled. This is how some of the anodized dies behave that I have made for casting various different hot and cold materials. And since I do my own anodizing also I should be able to report back on this fairly quickly.

My last pondering was thickness of aluminium. I worry that going to thin will without doubt cause general warping after repeated heat/cool cycles, but offer quicker heating of course. However thicker aluminium would offer more consistent temps but longer heat times. But would also offer longer cool down times and far less pronounced warping over time of the alu plate.

The last thing I have rolling around in my mind is the use of dental grade casting materials like zirconia and ceramics for the hot end. The thermisors could even be embeded directly within the cast while still in liquid form alone with the temp probe. The dental casting materials are well VERY hard, like teeth, very none stick, like teeth and as we know ceramic can be a great insulator and also if designed properly an excellent way to apply heat to one sepecific isolated area. Such as the barrel etc.

I don't have enough knowledge of the hot end as of yet to apply the idea, if it's even a good one. But as far as detail and durability goes, the medium far exceeds anything being used in the 3d print industry as of yet. And they would be near impossible to crack from heat cool cycles also. When I fire the zirconia, depending on the brand and application I will sometimes fire it at temps exceed 3800F. Not a typo.

A couple of points on making a heat diffuser:

1) if you start with 12" square stock you will have a difficult time drilling and countersinking all 6 holes that hold the plate down. It's possible if you are very precise but the countersinks will cut out of the disk. My diffusers are 12 1/8" diameter and the countersinks are deeper than the heads of the flat head screws required to fasten it down.

2) I also anodize and tested an anodized plate last year. Basically, it was too slippery even with hair spray to print on. Just take a Scotchbright to the plate and use hair spray or blue tape if you are printing PLA and you'll be good to go.

3) I also tested thickness of aluminum to make sure the Onyx would be held flat. 3/32" was just barely enough. 1/8" is more than sufficient. I have had ZERO warping problems with mine. As far as consistent temps, even 1/16" spreads the heat very evenly so thicker is not going to do anything more.

I installed a 3mm aluminium plate few days ago (got it water cut by a local for 10€ ) and was surprised, how even the temperature is. I did not cut something out for the electronics pad. I soldered everything from below and used kapton tape to insulate the top.