Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

It's not on github because it's too large.

Let's work through the list.

Major Stuff

1. Ideally I'd like a screw chart that when printed would be 1:1 size, but I haven't figured out how to do that yet. That being said, the screws differ pretty significantly by size...
2. Eh? Right over Fig. 4.1-5: "Next, you'll cover the thermistor with a few strips of Kapton tape to keep it in place."
3. Eh?
4. If the screws are "poking outwards" how are they going to retain the acrylic panels that are installed at the end of the build?
5. Not sure what to say here. "Worked for me".
6. Fig. 6.6-5 clearly shows the orientation of the screws.
7. Washer? What washer?
8. Fig. 6.7-11 clearly shows what the finished assemblies should look like.
9. *facedesk*
10. Tweak made regarding Y axis.
11. I did! Fixed!
12. I took an amazing amount of crap for screwing up the top plate pics (and it was well earned!), so when I did the 4th Edition, I made damn sure I had that sucker nailed down right and had it verified by just about everyone with working eyes. The top should match what you see in Figs. 8.2-8 and 14.2-3.
13. Added a clarification.

Minor Stuff

1. Er.. Why?
2. Eh?
3. I'm not going to touch this one.
4. What, and give people room to make a mess? Not gonna happen.
5. See page 5.
6. You go, "Oh crap! I just cross threaded this and destroyed the nut and/or screw!" not "MOAR FORCES! SCREW MUST TURN!!!!11oneone"
7. Isn't that pretty obvious?
8. It's...the only 3/8" screw in the kit. How?
9. Are you talking about the ball-joint arms? I suppose, but you're going to have a hell of a time fitting the top belt clamp with the arm in the way.
10. They're the only two metric screws in the EZStruder hardware pack. I added "Metric" to the BOM at the top of the chapter though.
11. I have no idea. Pic?
12. You should be nervous about cutting it. The length supplied is the length it should be.
13. That's fine. They're two legs of a switch so there's no polarity to them.
14. Eh? The word "axis" doesn't even occur on that page.
15. Psst! Bottom of page 116!

Thanks benjaminhill, your feedback IS appreciated despite what my smart ass attitude may reflect. Version 4.45 of the manual (dated 02Jul16) is now officially your fault.

Have a most excellent holiday!

g.

Anything not listed: yes you are right.

Major

#3 pg47 holes closest the top - I added the "s" because you meant all the top holes, not the singular hole. I just did the upper-left hole, like in the pic.
#4 "Poking outwards" "Facing inward" all are fuzzy to me. "With their screw head towards the inside" is very very clear. I guess if you consider the screw head to be the face, then "facing inwards" is totally clear. I was thinking the "direction it gets screwed in" to be the "direction it is facing"
#7 Sorry. "bearing" not "washer"
#8 Maybe a "look carefully and notice that the mounts have a top and bottom, don't do them upside down" comment?
#12: I meant "the engraving of the Y didn't match the beam that I had labeled Y" - but maybe I had the top-plate upside down or something?


Minor

#1: Dunno. For education? For being confident that "I can build this with what I got"?
#3: I'm new to gasket goop, and I didn't cut a big enough hole (like the pic) and had to squeeze it so hard that the back of the tube split, and ... yea. nevermind.
#4: I was confused why it was ok to goop the thermistor wires, until I found out it was an insulator.
#5 I skimmed "This way you can retain the protective mask on the parts in order to make painting the edges easier" which I absorbed wrong. nvm.
#6 check.
#7 no, cause I was skerd and new to this.
#8 I have no idea. some other flat head screw that was too big. It was bad. I still think a first step of "SHARPIE ALL YOUR SCREW BAGS IF YOU ARE AT ALL UNSURE" is a good thing.
#9 ahh. check.
#10 I have no idea how to tell a metric screw from a non-metric screw - the accent?
#12: But it is all loopy and has an extra few inches when the nozzle is touching the glass plate...
#13 yay I was right!
#15 d'oh. Acronyms, my nemesis.

My largest f-up
I'd really love a way to save others from this.
Something like the "??" in https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1MOJ ... 75ivM/edit perhaps?

Ma3: Tweaked. Now reads, "...cap screw through the holes closest to the top..."
Ma4: Between the follow-on photos and the checkpoint video, I think it's pretty obvious as to which direction "inward" is. That being said, I added a clarification.
Ma7: Wait. You forced the bearing in from the other side? How is that even possible? There's a HUGE diameter difference!
Ma8: That last photo is really clear about how they should look when you're done.
Ma12: If yours didn't match the photo, you flipped it. It's easy to do - I've done it _TWICE_.

Mi3: I think I figured out Ma7. You've got a hydraulic press for hands.
Mi10: The accent. I love that. Metric fasteners of that size tend to have a finer pitch to the threads than a similarly sized Imperial screw.
Mi12: Post a photo of your printer with the nozzle touching the bed. We'll let the peanut gallery judge if the length is too long.

I specify that you need to have 8" of wire coming out of the front of the machine when you're working with the X and Z towers. That should cover the ?? part in your drawing.

v4.46 inbound!

g.

Because the board wasn't in yet, I didn't know which was the front. In hindsight, very dumb mistake. So ya, I cut the wires to 8". Which leads to much suffering. Because 8" != '8" once you routed to the correct front face" - which I now have in the diagram as ( 8" + ??" )

i'm a proponent of a diagram like https://goo.gl/KNPHn5 in the guide, it would have been... comforting.

I thought it was pretty obvious where the "front" is, as that's where the "Rostock v2" logo is...

The most confusing part for me was where to mount the extruder. I swapped it back and forth 3-4 times before settling on the correct holes. I think if there was maybe an arrow etched saying "here dumbass" it'd be a lot smoother