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polycarb can be bent wit a heatgun and a sonotube. get a sonotube of the diameter you want. screw the edge of the poly to the sono using a board as a backer on the inside. slowly heat a small area along the long axis until it is soft and wrap it around the tube. repeat all the way around. when done use a table saw with a 60 tooth carbide tipped blade to cut the excess.

Tom C

Could the brackets be expanded a little bit (to overhang the base) in order to clear the layer fan? I really like this enclosure, but don't want to worry about where my prints happen to land on the build plate. How much more clearance is needed? Obviously, this would change the size of the plexi needed, but I don't think that's a big deal.

They'll become too large to print pretty quickly if they're expanded, especially if they're expanded enough to accommodate a stock layer fan.

Herrminator117 wrote:So this a took a bit longer than expected, but i have the base done, I havent gotten around to splitting it into different parts!

But i did come up with a really interesting way of making doors. It uses two sheets of plexi that overlap in the back and then there will be handles in the front to close or open it.
Hopefully that makes sense, use the picture below for a reference.

The only issue I see now is that it uses a good amount more of plastic. Ups the print time significantly Id imagine. But the top shouldnt be too difficult. Hopefully I can get it done before I start studying for finals!

Cylinderical Enclosure.png

I love this idea, but how are you going allow the panels to slide/ rotate smoothly? Is there going to be a gasket to seal the two panels as the pass each other?

Thanks for the design

Just finished mine today, after many hours of printing and sourcing the joints it looks great. Only thing i'm not thrilled with is how the red ended up looking. If i could do it again it would be white or black to go with the rest of the printer. But with the time it takes to print it out it may be awhile until i feel the need to redo it.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/tOGZbIE.jpg[/img]

I also did a quick design and print of some mounts for my magnetic closing latch. JB Welded them in, although it was my first time using any epoxy based adhesive and it was a bit messier than i would have liked. But they arnt going anywhere and it works great to keep it closed.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/ylOE4xZ.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/ItebXTM.jpg[/img]

Resurecting yet another thread, but for those of you that are still looking for a layer fan that works with this enclosure I just desgned a new one thats based off the Atom 2.0
The mount and layer fan are kind of exclusive to the E3D v6, because thats what I have, but they use the laptop fans, which you can find the link for in the decription on the linked page.

I took alot of the informationfrom another thread that was trying to recreate the Atoms layer fan. It only uses two fans like the Atom 2.0 for compactness and also to not have issues with the cooling fan getting in the way.
I have had really good success with it so far. I have 50 hours of prints on it, with a couple 12 hour prints.

One thing I should say is that if you use it, the fans need to be all the way in the mounts. I used a pair of large vice grips to get them in place. The fans are metal so your not going to damage them.

You can find the file here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1176735

I would love feedback for anyone that finds some issues with it or any ideas to make it better! Thanks everyone!

Herrminator117 wrote:Resurecting yet another thread, but for those of you that are still looking for a layer fan that works with this enclosure I just desgned a new one thats based off the Atom 2.0
The mount and layer fan are kind of exclusive to the E3D v6, because thats what I have, but they use the laptop fans, which you can find the link for in the decription on the linked page.

I took alot of the informationfrom another thread that was trying to recreate the Atoms layer fan. It only uses two fans like the Atom 2.0 for compactness and also to not have issues with the cooling fan getting in the way.
I have had really good success with it so far. I have 50 hours of prints on it, with a couple 12 hour prints.

One thing I should say is that if you use it, the fans need to be all the way in the mounts. I used a pair of large vice grips to get them in place. The fans are metal so your not going to damage them.

You can find the file here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1176735

I would love feedback for anyone that finds some issues with it or any ideas to make it better! Thanks everyone!

I like your design and is on my list to get printed. Thanks!

Here is a layer fan that Draw Tech made for me which is a modification of his radial fan that works with TrickLight. I like the idea of a triple fan but needed it to clear the enclosure. Thus, I designed a modification such that the fan sits above the print head and easily clears the enclosure. Draw Tech did a great job!! This is designed for the following fan (http://www.mpja.com/5VDC-Mini-CPU-Fan/p ... 2166%20FN/).

The sad part , even though I have printed these, they fit together great, and I have the fans, I still need to install and try these.

Here are the all the STL files... If you use the stock fans, you should be able to easily resize them. If you do print and use these, let me know how they work.

.........................
Ok so I have edited this a ton of times since....... I apparently can not type or upload up a file tonight!!!!!

Dan

anyone know of a good option to join .08" acrylic for the enclosure? I am considering gaffer tape, but I would like a more polished look.

I went and found clear acrylic piano hinges on US Plastics, and they can be joined with Methylene Chloride (dichloromethane, a common modeling solvent) It will work on both PC and acrylic, so you should be safe there. I also found Polycarbonate hinges (but not piano hinges) on US plastics, and those are working well for my door thus far.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... &catid=597
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... &catid=597

You can likely find them other places. I just use US plastics as they are relatively close, and cheap if you do in store pick-up. You can buy solvents and applicators from them too, if you don't already own them (I think you might be a be of an aircraft modeler, just by impressions)

Mc-Master-Carr apparently has slip on hinges as well, but I'm not a fan of their shipping costs, and don't have a shop in my area. I may get some, along with some robotics wire (4 conductor shielded 14 gauge sounds good to me for hotend umbilicals), after I'm back in the campus shop, since they do regular orders and eat the shipping if you need something reasonable.

Enthusiast, maybe, still working on the modeler title though my brother in law sent me one of these for Christmas: http://www.revell.com/germany/aircraft/80-4900.html. I am partial to the B-1 .

I have looked at these hinges elsewhere, I'll give them a closer look now. I liked the slip on joint idea for easy disassembly if necessary, but I can't find any that go down to .08".

Personally, I do modeling for wargames (Warhammer, 40K, Malifaux, Infinity, Dropzone commander) If it's either 28MM or 10MM, I probably have at least a table worth of terrain that would fit it. We got the laser cutter in my sig to make more terrain (and not for sale either, we just make that much of it, and it was cheaper than buying the terrain cut for us.) But if you have more than 2 kits or models, and the requisite supplies (glue, brushes, paint, exactos, and an extensive vocabulary of swear-words for when you mess up with any of the above), then I'd say you're a modeler. Good luck with the hinges though. If you can't find any small enough, just shim them out a bit.

Nice! I have too many young kiddos right now to get any prime real estate in the house, so high shelves are all I get for any aircraft in my home.

I was just perusing your build log, very nice looking machine! I may have to pony up and buy some 1/8" acrylic, I got the .08" stuff for dirt cheap so I thought I would give it a shot.

Trying to print this enclosure, had to construct a draft blocking apparatus in the mean time. Poor guy looks homeless.

the link to these parts in the first post in this thread seems to be dead
http://repables.com/r/447
I looked on thingiverse but did not see them there so I am looking for the STL files for something like this but large enough that it would not impede any motion at the outside of the build envelope. the picture that Herminator looked good as well

looks like repables is down at the moment, I was just on their a couple of hours ago and the link was fine.

I am uploading the files here temporarily until repables is restored
The instructions say to print 4 DOOR LATCH2, and 2 each of BETWEEN and BETWEEN TOP, and 1 of everything else.

e_hutch wrote:looks like repables is down at the moment, I was just on their a couple of hours ago and the link was fine.

Thanks Huch

e_hutch wrote:Trying to print this enclosure, had to construct a draft blocking apparatus in the mean time. Poor guy looks homeless.

0101161217.jpg

Ha. Do what works. We had something similar while we were printing the enclosure pieces.

e_hutch wrote:Trying to print this enclosure, had to construct a draft blocking apparatus in the mean time. Poor guy looks homeless.

0101161217.jpg

It looks like it belongs on the Beverly Hillbillies! But hey it worked for what you were doing for the moment!
That is a fine example of recycling!

I haven't finished printing it yet, but I think the door hinge stl may be on a goofy angle. I can't figure out how to fix it in kisslicer though, and get the largest flat surface against the bed of the printer. Is this something that can be changed in the original file, or am I just missing how to do it?

Jfetting, could you post the source files for your design? I want to build this with rigid foam insulation to save money, but the thinnest sheet I can find is 1/2".

Just assembled the enclosure. 1/8" foam core is opaque, but readily available (at framing stores), relatively cheap, and a good insulator. I sealed it up with aluminum tape for ducts.