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krak wrote:I printed this out last week. The 40mm fan just came in. When the current print is finished I plan on installing this and the 25mm fan.

The 25 hour print finished late last night. Pretty good for a hobby level printer. Now I have the 25mm fan pointed at the hot end, and 40 mm fan duct installed. Which unit should be considered Fan 0 and Fan 1? Where do I need to be looking in the software to control Fan 1?

Oh and so far the fans seem to be pretty well balanced.

Edit: I started a new thread about fan questions to keep this thread a little cleaner.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2485

How about a PWM-controlled solenoid powered by the shop compressor? Is that overkill? I mean, I could just stand around with a straw and blow. I really like the fan shroud, it will probably be one of the first things I print. Thanks.

-Doc

doctorgonzo wrote:How about a PWM-controlled solenoid powered by the shop compressor? Is that overkill? I mean, I could just stand around with a straw and blow. I really like the fan shroud, it will probably be one of the first things I print. Thanks.

-Doc

I'm not sure if solenoids would like that high frequency operation, or if they could operate fast enough mechanically. I only say this based on awareness of projects in both the hydraulic and automotive industries that are attempting to create PWM valves for "throttle-less" circuits. In both cases I know of research efforts that spanned multiple years.

I'm sure it would certainly provide all the flow you need, though...

Rostock MAX Tower Alignment Brace

If you've ever done a tower alignment and thought, "This would be a lot easier if I had two or three friends to hold things very firmly in place," these clamps are for you. I got the idea from someone else on the forums, but I don't remember who it was.

JohnStack wrote:

MSURunner wrote:Here's the updated fan shroud, 50 mm setup still... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74789

I'll crank out a 40 soon

You printed the example out with a dual head? Can you go into that a bit somewhere?

Single head, just placed a bit of black filament in the bowden, followed by some orange and fed the black spool in later.

I have been working on an enclosure for my Rostock Max. I noticed that a 12x24" sheet of acrylic fits rather nicely between the skates and really leaves a 1.75" gap on the top and bottom. This is really nice for me because I live in an apartment and using a panel saw to cut down a larger sheet in my living room would probably be frowned upon. The printer is with my wife right now doing a demonstration and I will post pictures as soon as she gets back. For now, you will all have to settle for the skeleton Thingiverse page. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:172116

Looking forward to seeing the end result.

I've been working on a design for a enclosed delta based around seemecnc parts. After calculating out print time on my old h1-1 to be over 120 hours, I cried uncle and just ordered a new Rostock MAX with the intention of adding an enclosure mod.

I'm trying to print in a garage at 50 F and want to keep the heat in. I'm planning on adding a beaglebone or raspberry pi with a CO sensor as a safety device for unattended prints. The enclosure will aid in detection of the CO.

Thought I would post my easy LED light ring.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:204581

Just used 2 sections from a 300smd 12volt led light strip and then glued it to the inside rim. Used Loctite's Go2 Glue and it has held up great for about 50 hours of printing in close proximity to the hotend. This is designed to work with the single hotend stock Rostock max. I have it wired to the fan so they both come on at once since I always run the peek fan at 100% anyway. Leaves 2mm of clearance from the rim to the print surface so no issues dragging parts or anything.

Uses factory screws and no modifications are needed.

[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/cjdavis618/rostock/DF3B9C64-2BD3-437A-B9DA-F7F0D0701F73_zpsyvqbg4ju.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/cjdavis618/rostock/9B3CD5CB-6F49-4BBF-B152-6723FA25420D_zpspslhfpag.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/cjdavis618/rostock/A6808902-C032-4824-9017-592CCE4CB5A0_zpsq5kl5zug.jpg[/img]

cjdavis618 wrote:Thought I would post my easy LED light ring.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:204581

Very neat!

Neat and I added it to the collection, thanks!

That is a very bright light. Good job!

Aaand... here comes my humble contribution.
I've designed a dual extrution mount with integrated cooling. It is for use with the stock seemecnc hot ends.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:214536

Have fun. :-)

~Jens

Added.

JolietDelta wrote:Aaand... here comes my humble contribution.
I've designed a dual extrution mount with integrated cooling. It is for use with the stock seemecnc hot ends.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:214536

Have fun.

~Jens

Your contribution is appreciated and can be very useful for the users who want to use the stock hot-ends in a dual mount configuration.
Thanks for contributing.

I've uploaded my E3D - Bowden mounting adapter for the Rostock Max and added it to the collection.

I just completed these Rostock Max Tool Caddies and uploaded them to Thingiverse. They are in the collection too.

Nice! and those zebra clips are da bomb!

Yeah, I love the zebra clips. The two back by the Onyx electrical connector are red.

mhackney,

Thanks for developing the collection! Here is one to add: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:243270. It is a very simple Dual Hotend Mounting.

I will report progress with dual hotends in this thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 885#p28885.

Bill

Added it Bill, thanks.

i made a 40mm fan mount to be used with your e3d mount or any similar. this acts as a 41mm spacer that leaves about 9mm of nozzle/platform clearance below.

Thank you! Which mount has this been tested with?

That's "cool". I like the splitter back post.

cheers,
Michael

Eaglezsoar wrote:Thank you! Which mount has this been tested with?

The one Michael posted a few weeks ago, but im sure it would worth with pilots as well

Working on a new J head mount, this one is much better than my previous design. Thi one should be a direct bolt in without having to source screws or anything.
I havent tried it yet, its printing now I will let you know how it comes out.