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A 2.4x scaled print of the great owl on a stock Rostock MAX and our hot-end.

The file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18271 owl by cushwa
The print by PartDaddy

Some Statistics:
----------------
SeeMeCNC's stock hot end that has been shipping since summer 2013
translucent orange PLA (from SeeMeCNC)
343mm tall
weight 1.6 pounds (0.73kg)
time 47.5 hours
Repetier 0.90C, Slic3r 0.9.10b
hot end temps set at 200C, but reported about 190C with fans on
bed temp set at 70C with only a little glue stick applied to 99% alcohol cleaned boro glass


Slic3r settings:
=============
'Print Settings':
=============
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Layers and Perimeters:
layer height 0.24mm
first layer height 0.3mm
perimeters 3
randomize starting points unchecked
generate extra perimeters when needed CHECKED
solid layers 3 top and 3 bottom
avoid crossing perimeters unchecked
external perimeters first unchecked
spiral vase unchecked

----------------
Infill
----------------
fill density 0.07
fill pattern honeycomb
top bottom fill concentric

---------------
speed
---------------
perimeter thru bridges SET ALL TO 30mm/sec
gap fill 20
travel 200
first layer speed 14 (not 14%, but 14mm/s)
the rest of the settings are zero

---------------
skirt
--------------
set to one or two loops at 6mm from object to get filament flowing
min extrusion length zero
brim 0



--------------
Advanced <----VERY IMPORTANT
--------------
set all values in the 'Extrusion Width' box to 1.2 X your nozzle diameter. I used a 0.5mm nozzle, so 0.5 x 1.2 = 0.6
default extrusion width .6
first layer .6
etc.....
support material .6

bridge flow ratio 1
threads 4 (just for processing model)
resolution 0


===================
Filament Settings:
===================
--------------
Filament
--------------
diameter 1.75mm
1.01 (you might want to print something at 1.0, adjust this to compensate for small or oversize filament)
Temp 200C
Bed 66 (I later set it to 70C while printing)

---------------
Cooling
---------------
Keep fan on checked (however, my fans are connected to 12VDC on whenever hot end is on)
enable auto cooling CHECKED
fan speed 100%
bridge fan 100%
diable fan for the first zero layers
enable fan if layer print time is below 60 sec
slow down if layer print time is below 15 sec
min print speed 4 mm/s


===============
Printer Settings
===============
----------------
General
----------------
Bed size 270 x 270 (these are general machine definitions from setting up your machine)
print center 135 (the radius of your machine)
z offset 0
firmware is reprap marlin sprinter choice
use relative E distances unchecked
extruders 1
vibration limit 0

----------------
custom G code
----------------
starting gcode:

G28; home all



End gcode:

G92 E0; zero extruder
G91; incremental mode
G1 Z3 E-8 F5000; liner interpolate z positive 3mm and reverse filament 8mm
G90; absolute mode
G28; home all
M104 S0; turn off hot end heaters
M140 S0; turn off heated bed



-------------------
Extruder
-------------------
nozzle diameter .5
extruder offset 0 and 0
retraction length 7.0
lift z .8
speed 50
extra length on restart .1
minimum travel after retraction 8
retract on layer change unchecked
wipe before retract unchecked
retraction when finished 8mm
extra on restart 8mm

Here's the cooling fan setup. There is one layer of kapton on the hot end, but I don't think it's necessary.

Other hot end notes: I don't use aluminum foil wrapped around my heating resistors. That was something I did early on (two year ago). I only use the high-temp RTV Ultra Copper silicone when gluing in my heat resistors and thermistor. Don't be concerned about the heat resistor not making contact with the aluminum heater head. MAKE SURE you fill around the heat resistors with RTV, cover them completely.

There's about 300~400 hours on this hot end.

Nice print Steve.

PartDaddy wrote:Here's the cooling fan setup. There is one layer of kapton on the hot end, but I don't think it's necessary.

Other hot end notes: I don't use aluminum foil wrapped around my heating resistors. That was something I did early on (two year ago). I only use the high-temp RTV Ultra Copper silicone when gluing in my heat resistors and thermistor. Don't be concerned about the heat resistor not making contact with the aluminum heater head. MAKE SURE you fill around the heat resistors with RTV, cover them completely.

There's about 300~400 hours on this hot end.

Cooling fans on Rostock MAX Fall 2013.jpg

Steve, what you are saying about the RTV and the resistors runs contrary to what we have always told everyone, in fact it is the exact opposite. I realize that it is working for you but do you want us to
tell new users to coat their resistors in RTV instead of wrapping them in aluminum foil? We also have been telling new users not to get RTV on the end of the thermistor so that it has glass to metal contact
within the hole. To be quite honest I was shocked when you said you were wrapping the resistors with RTV. Now I'm not sure how to answer questions about mounting the resistors and thermistors.
To be quite honest, since RTV does not conduct heat, I don't know how you are getting away with this without burning up the resistors. Please help my confused mind.
Carl

@Eaglezsoar

Really, the only reason I tell people to skip the aluminum foil wrap on the heat resistors is because many people short circuited their RAMBo. I have great results with only packing in the Ultra Copper RTV silicone.

It's a kit, hack it! There's always more than one right way to do something. So you're not wrong for telling people to wrap in aluminum foil.

The foil always made me nervous too, but I took extra care because it made me nervous. If you just seal the ends with RTV, I could see it working well. If you squirt RTV in one side and wait until it fills up the other... well that's when I become hesitant of it working. No use in trying to predict what someone is going to do though, so might as well take the same attitude and say 'Hack It'.

RTV in the ends with a gooey thermal paste filling should be recommended solution to the next person to ask...What? It's not because I just want to see it happen!

I'll continue to fill each resistor pocket completely full of only RTV. The Ultra Copper RTV by itself works very well. I have never tried thermal paste.

Thermal paste only conducts really well when it's applied in a very thin layer.

g.

My hack was to cut an inserts out of 1/4" x .014" K&S aluminum tube, which just slides in the hole. Then use a grub set screw from a belt pulley, run it in the small side hole to mark the insert. Drill a small hole in the insert for the set screw to go through. Slide the resistor in, run the set screw up against the resistor to push it toward center (carefully!) just enough to hold it. Fill the ends with RTV. Let that sit. Pull the set screw out and inject that void with RTV. Wire it up! I can turn on my heated bed, set for 80C, wait for it to get to 75C, then turn on my hotend and it will get from room temp to 230C before my heated bed reaches temp.

Oh and... Awesome Owl print PartDaddy

If infill had been 0 for the owl and left top and bottom layers set as 4 or so, would it be printed as hollow or is other
settings needed to print a hollow owl?

geneb wrote:Thermal paste only conducts really well when it's applied in a very thin layer.

g.

Eh, not necessarily. It conducts best when thin, but still better than air when thick. Good paste is a a few hundred times more conductive than air, so it would pretty much always be better than not having it in the size hole we're talking about.

We had a Rostock Clinic up in Kalamazoo and the guys brought up the owl. The picture doesn't do it justice, that thing is huge.

jmpreuss wrote:We had a Rostock Clinic up in Kalamazoo and the guys brought up the owl. The picture doesn't do it justice, that thing is huge.

If I set the infill to 0 in slic3r and left a bottom and top fill, would it create a hollow owl?

PartDaddy wrote:Here's the cooling fan setup. There is one layer of kapton on the hot end, but I don't think it's necessary.

Other hot end notes: I don't use aluminum foil wrapped around my heating resistors. That was something I did early on (two year ago). I only use the high-temp RTV Ultra Copper silicone when gluing in my heat resistors and thermistor. Don't be concerned about the heat resistor not making contact with the aluminum heater head. MAKE SURE you fill around the heat resistors with RTV, cover them completely.

There's about 300~400 hours on this hot end.

Cooling fans on Rostock MAX Fall 2013.jpg

May I ask where you got These ?

If the owl had been printed with no infill except for a bottom and top, would it print the inside hollow?
Would this be a good idea?

Are the cooling fans that were shown being used on Thingiverse?

I would really appreciate it if you could upload those fan ducts to repables or as an attachment here.

Hey NETio


Here's a link to the fan ducts


The 25mm Fan Duct for the PEEK cooling fan is
http://repables.com/r/140/

The 25mm part cooling fan ducts are
http://repables.com/r/142/

AND the NEW and IMPROVED 30mm blower fan for part cooling is
http://repables.com/r/171/

The last one uses a 30mm squirrel fan, we'll have them on the website shortly, but it is what's shipping with ALL Rostock MAX kits now, as well as Orion's come with it loaded and ready

Thanks guys!

John, are you shipping just the 30mm fan or are you including the duct as well? (As effective as that sucker is, Steve should make an injection mold for it - other Delta printers could take advantage of it.)

g.

I have asked this question 3 times and have received no replies so I will ask it again..
If I set the infill to 0 in slic3r and left a bottom and top fill, would it create a hollow owl?

Then you've answered your own question three times. Well unless of course you're from some alternate universe where zero infill means something other than zero infill.


g.

geneb wrote:Then you've answered your own question three times. Well unless of course you're from some alternate universe where zero infill means something other than zero infill.


g.

Thank you for putting us little people in our place.

:eyeroll:

johnoly99 wrote:Hey NETio


Here's a link to the fan ducts


The 25mm Fan Duct for the PEEK cooling fan is
http://repables.com/r/140/

The 25mm part cooling fan ducts are
http://repables.com/r/142/

AND the NEW and IMPROVED 30mm blower fan for part cooling is
http://repables.com/r/171/

The last one uses a 30mm squirrel fan, we'll have them on the website shortly, but it is what's shipping with ALL Rostock MAX kits now, as well as Orion's come with it loaded and ready

Thanks guys!

John,

Is this the 30mm fan you are referring to?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13657 ... 2BA-B.html

Trying to source where to purchase the correct fan for part cooling on my December-purchased RoMax kit.

Thanks
-rep

replicant wrote:

johnoly99 wrote:Hey NETio


Here's a link to the fan ducts


The 25mm Fan Duct for the PEEK cooling fan is
http://repables.com/r/140/

The 25mm part cooling fan ducts are
http://repables.com/r/142/

AND the NEW and IMPROVED 30mm blower fan for part cooling is
http://repables.com/r/171/

The last one uses a 30mm squirrel fan, we'll have them on the website shortly, but it is what's shipping with ALL Rostock MAX kits now, as well as Orion's come with it loaded and ready

Thanks guys!

John,

Is this the 30mm fan you are referring to?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13657 ... 2BA-B.html

Trying to source where to purchase the correct fan for part cooling on my December-purchased RoMax kit.

Thanks
-rep

That is not the correct fan.
The Fan is available from Future Electronics at t http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Tec ... ION9925876
The cost is $11.32 plus shipping. Digikey also carries them for about a dollar more. The fan is about 1.5 cfm.

That link I gave is not working try this one: http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Tec ... ION9925876