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Brand new Rostock Max 2 started my 3rd print...Stopped dead in it's tracks.

I fired up my printer let it get up to temp and I sent a print to it. It started printing and then just stop dead in it's tracks. The LCD went black and I don't see any light's flashing on the RAMBo board. Fans were still going, but no other signs of life.

Here is what I have done so far:
I shut everything down immediately and did a quick inspection to make sure there weren't any loose, burnt or hot wires (all looks good).
I gave it the old sniff test and nothing smells burnt.
I turned the machine back on and still dead. I confirmed the Power supply and RAMBo fans are both working.
The fuse on the RAMBo board looks good and I pulled it and re seated it for good measure.
I put my volt meter on the Hot wires feeding into the RAMBo and they all are at 12v (not sure what they should be at, but sounds like a good number to me).
I re booted my PC and re launched the Repetier Host and confirmed there were no reading from either thermistor and no response to any manual control inputs.

Any advice, suggestions? I see a little reset looking button on the RAMBo controller, but haven't pushed it yet...should I?

SOLVED - It turned out to be a blown Nano fuse on the RAMBo board (the F3 fuse to be exact).

Lanty,
Are there any LED's lit at all on the Rambo board?
...Chrissi

Beat me to it Chrissi!

If you have power at the RAMBo terminals and the main fuse is not blown you should see some LED action! If not, it does sound like you have a blown board.

No LEDs I'm sorry to say.

If you are seeing 12V at the RAMBo terminal AND the large blue fuse is good, you have a dead board unfortunately.

That was what I was afraid of.
Thanks for the confirmation.

So are these known to be temperamental? Are there any extra precautions needed to avoid this in the future?

No, they are known to be very reliable and robust. I do some really nasty things to my RAMBos (2 of them) and they handle it admirably. I have also blown a thermistor port by plugging in hot wires to it too! (and Ultimachines repaired it even though I admitted full responsibility) I doubt that you did anything "wrong", especially since it is so new and you had a couple of successful prints. CALL SeeMeCNC tomorrow and have them take care of it for you.

Glad to hear there tough.

Lets just hope I got a bunk one and that a quick swap out will have me back up and running in no time.
I knew things were going too smooth!

No reason why you shouldn't be up and running. I've got well over 1000 hours on mine and it is doing fine. And I'm always plugging things in and out, moving it around, etc.

It's also possible that the 5V rail on the power supply died.

g.

geneb wrote:It's also possible that the 5V rail on the power supply died.

g.

You got me on that one Gene, where is 5V used from the power supply?

Turns out there are 3 fusses on the RAMBo v1.2 controller. There is 1 large 15 amp and 2 small NANO2 fuses.
I set my multimeter to continuity and tested both fuses and found the F3 had blown!

The F2 (NANO2 fuse) = is for the Motors.
The F3 (NANO2 fuses) = is for Logic, Heat, Fans.
The F4 (large fuse) = Is for the Heat Bed.

I switched the F2 and F3 fuse and got my LCD display working (and I assume everything else on that circuit).
So once I replace that some what over priced fuse I "should" be back in action! I may create an adapter so I can use standard auto fuses (much cheaper).
Thanks everyone for you assistance.

Glad you found the problem! I get the fuses from Mouser and I use the 10 amp version
The cost is expensive for just a fuse but I get a 10 pack which helps a little on the cost.

So, I just want to clarify so if this happens in the future we can more easily diagnose, with F3 or F2 "blown" you should see some LEDs lit on the board. When I asked earlier you said there were NO LEDs lit up. Can you confirm this please? I blew F3 on my RAMBo earlier this week and there were indeed other LEDs on the board lit up.

thanks

from the Rambo RepRapWiki:

Rambo RepRapWiki wrote:F2 supplies the motors and on-board power supply.
F3 supplies the extruder heater and fan outputs.
F4 is a 15A ATO (the type found in many automotives). F4 supplies the heated bed output.

It is different from the picture you displayed... maybe a difference in versions ?

mhackney wrote:So, I just want to clarify so if this happens in the future we can more easily diagnose, with F3 or F2 "blown" you should see some LEDs lit on the board. When I asked earlier you said there were NO LEDs lit up. Can you confirm this please? I blew F3 on my RAMBo earlier this week and there were indeed other LEDs on the board lit up.

thanks

I blew my F3 fuse and had no LED activity on my board, it went completely black (the cooling fan was the only thing running).
When I moved the good fuse from F2 fuse holder and put in the F3 fuse holder both the Red and Green LEDs light up as well and the LCD display.

It is possible that I am not out of the woods yet and that there was an electronic failure on the board that lead to the F3 fuse being blown. Once I get a replacement fuse I will be able to properly test things and know where I stand.

enggmaug wrote:from the Rambo RepRapWiki:

Rambo RepRapWiki wrote:F2 supplies the motors and on-board power supply.
F3 supplies the extruder heater and fan outputs.
F4 is a 15A ATO (the type found in many automotives). F4 supplies the heated bed output.

It is different from the picture you displayed... maybe a difference in versions ?

I got my info and Pic from the same RAMBo wiki : )
I believe I have a RAMBo v1.2

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_v1.2#Fuses

Eaglezsoar wrote:Glad you found the problem! I get the fuses from Mouser and I use the 10 amp version
The cost is expensive for just a fuse but I get a 10 pack which helps a little on the cost.

Thanks for the tip, they do have better prices than what I found on amazon, but $7 shipping on a 3mm x 3mm x 6mm item still seems a little steep.
It's always the shipping and handling that gets you! The cost of getting your printer running "priceless"!

According to the RAMBo wiki "an example part number for replacement fuses is 0448005.MR"
5A http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lit ... QEM1wS4Q==

Similar higher amp fuses (you run a higher risk of frying something):
7A http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lit ... 1UOaGn0%3d
10A http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lit ... cb4QHKo%3d

Eaglezsoar wrote:

geneb wrote:It's also possible that the 5V rail on the power supply died.

g.

You got me on that one Gene, where is 5V used from the power supply?

*sigh*

This is why I shouldn't post when I'm sick. Move along citizen! Nothing to see here....

g.

geneb wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:

geneb wrote:It's also possible that the 5V rail on the power supply died.

g.

You got me on that one Gene, where is 5V used from the power supply?

*sigh*

This is why I shouldn't post when I'm sick. Move along citizen! Nothing to see here....

g.

Nothing wrong with your statement Gene. It is a fact. Might not be relevant to the OP's problem, but you are correct, the 5V rail on the PS may have indeed died.

mhackney wrote:Nothing wrong with your statement Gene. It is a fact. Might not be relevant to the OP's problem, but you are correct, the 5V rail on the PS may have indeed died.

Let's not forget that the -12v and the 3.3v rails could have also gave up the ghost.

True that.

I borrowed a 5 Amp Nano fuse from a guy at work (a fellow Max owner) and fired up the printer. Everything appears to be working as expected!

I suspect the original cause of the blown fuse was the Peek and PLA fan wires that are dangling and bouncing around at the hot end. The most likely touched and shorted causing the fuse to blow. I taped them off and will see if i can print something off tomorrow.

Thanks for the help guys!

I just did this exact same thing!!
I was so excited to start printing that I did a sloppy job taping the layer fan wires and they ended up getting bumped around and shorted on my 4th part.

I have to ask: has everything been working well over the past few weeks after replacing the 5A fuse?
(My replacement part is on order, but part of me is going to continue to wonder if I've done any damage to the rest of the circuit....)