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Hello,

I went to Thingiverse, and found a mount, I liked it but, it was for E3D's V5, which is bigger. The smaller profile of the newer V6 print head, doesn't fit in the printed mount. So, I changed it, and exported as a STL file, and slic3r just got done with it. The tolerances of the V5 mount, would have the nozzle up inside the carriage by so much, the plastic would have to drop down to the print plate. I made some measurements and found that it would be perfect, if I just used the old aluminum stand-offs, and just got some longer bolts, keeping the phillips head screw down and the bolt on top. But, I found I could pinch the cool end of the hot end with two pieces of plastic and hold it securely in place. So, here's the STL files if you want them. Making other adjustments, to accommodate their thermistor, or just using the one the came with the printer originally can solve that problem. Solving it, has another side to it as well. You can clear the Rambo's EEPROM, and fix the Configure.h file, and reload it with the thermistor that came with the V6 print head. So, here's that file.

The PVC Primer and I suggest using Purple Primer, will cause the plastic to expand. It will absorb the acetone in the primer. The PVC glue, I suggest is RED, it's easy to see red against purple. This will only work if you print with ABS. But, the gluing process is simple, use some short nuts and bolts to hold everything together, and be quick, the stuff dries quickly. Give yourself seconds, even if they offer you minutes.

For some reason my printer has printed this bigger than it should be. I'll get back to you.

http://www.mathsisfun.com/numbers/perce ... hange.html

Okay, when you go to calibrate your printer, Z is separate from X and Y. I would advise making two pillars 1 cm in diameter, one one centimeter high, and the other 10 cms high, using your CAD program to produce the STL file. Then two circles, one 1 cm in diameter and the other 10 cm in diameter. Then use the equation, if you find a decimal with a 1. something, just scale it up by 1. whatever three places after the decimal, and or scale it down, if there is a leading zero. Z is not, and does not equal X and Y axis relationships. Then do X and Y separately. Do your scaling in a CAD program for whatever model, if you need exact.



We're not printing bullet proof skins, nano-robot cell replacement tech, or shattering bones that contain the data of our pre-existing neural cell structures but, we are printing plastic. You can be remembered forever but not live forever. These 3D printers only do so much, and we cannot even replace an organ no matter how exact.

I've edited this file 3 times, now everything fits tightly. How the pieces fit!

neurologically,
printed organs weep in failure,
no life in plastic.

(I know neurologically was a stretch, but it fits if you assume the "a" is silent.)

I'm surprised that there's no calibration procedure for this thing. I just printed what was suppose to be a 1 cm cube. Took it off of the print bed, measured it, then corrected the X,Y and Z, by scaling the project.

My Z=0.864, X=0.953, and Y=0.984

So my cube was 10.16 mm long, 10.49 mm wide, and 11.57 mm tall.

Flavored Coffee wrote:I'm surprised that there's no calibration procedure for this thing.

There is. You just aren't following it. Do like we asked, and post your EEPROM settings and Configuration.h so we can figure out what else you've screwed up by not reading comprehensive instruction manual which would have prevented your mishaps if you read the thing.

Maybe, I need to read the other manual for the first Rostock Max V1. There's a deleted chapter, and it's written there and chapter 22 was described as bad luck. I've read my whole manual, and I ain't seen that calibration.

You do know it's a PDF file, and I can just search for "Calibration" and that's just the hot end, and hot bed, there's nothing about adjusting scale.

X, Y and Z are off. I didn't write the software, or alter it, yet. I am going to, and just think slic3r should hold the modification variable and let the big computer do the hard math. It's just not a scaling variable there to fix indifferent 3D Printers. If you're right, everyone that prints the 1 cm cube, will be able to use their calipers and measure exactly 10 mm on every side. They can use their own CAD Programs and I'm telling you, I'm running an unaltered version of the software. I am going to alter which thermistor I'm using as soon as I mount the new printing head.

Everything fits together now but, my fan shroud, I now know it was printed too big. The fan is rattling around inside the print. Want me to make a video of me shaking it?

They just changed the leveling program, and the Horizontal Radius, could be the cause of the problem, and it's effecting the size of the projects as well. The only way to test that theory, is make 2 more print carraiges each one a 5 millimeter wider all the way around. If you get the new carriage to travel level, and the horizontal radius is the issue, it may print bigger and bigger prints based upon the carriage, or smaller and smaller.

The calibration cube, and scaling in slic3r is just a short cut that works.

I would measure from each axis of the tripod, and do things the way trig works. Don't look at a short cut, just do the math, and make sure the program follows the right order of operations. It works, and I'm not complaining. I'm just sharing my modifications. Considering that it's open source, doesn't make you an idiot. I can see your frustration. You've done everything right before, and set a high bar for yourself. You think I tweaked something but, have you built your kit lately. I think your hand on, in this situation, have been allot more hands off and over confidence kills whales. Okay, why do they beach themselves? It's not because, there's more water. Their brains are so big, that if we decrypt their language, they'd still be talking about dinosaurs. Consider this, their brain is so big, we could crawl into their skull. What would you be talking about, if all you could do is talk. Okay, I've heard of a whale dying, and then a bunch of whales beach themselves. Okay, that was a UFO cult. Don't let your junk get worked up about this, it's just a printer, and we're not fighting over it.

I don't know who you are but, you seem uptight, and there are few reasons for it except, you've really worked hard on this, and you don't like but, you were over confident and really not hands on enough, or by as much as the first version. I'm sure you get as pissed of with me, as you do yourself but, that's only when you're really working. If I make a mistake, I don't have a target, or anyone else to blame because, I just do my own thing. You don't get to see me get pissed off at somebody else for my mistakes, I can do that without telling anybody.

So, what I am I really saying? The new leveling software, is having a lens effect on the scale of the projects. But, the trig for a tripod, is all you need, and this Horizontal radius, I'm pretty sure is garbage. I could use functions of the sine but, if I pretend I don't need scaling after that infinite variable math, you're nuts. I know I do. I know it follows a parabolic curve or a simple sine in any direction of movement but, that doesn't tell me how big or small anything is going to be if printed. If I go full blown trig, I don't know that the Rambo, can hold the equation or take out to enough places to even round off accurately. Rounding off to 3 places after the decimal, makes any mistake invisible but, and that's a big but, the software on the 64 bit machine, should be solving all of those problems and producing the GCode. Another option is using two SD Cards, one internal, for extra programs and storage, for the level bed etc. and scaling issues but, the Rambo, is 186 or a 286 16 bit machine. A little too simple to do the math right without only having one program working in it. But, a cheat sheet, is a level map on a SD card, it's just a table of right answers. Printing the 1 cm cube, a short cut, to the tables. I think you get angry at me because, you work too hard, and are a bit over confident. But, you can really fix, by just getting hands dirty, and working on it.

If you are telling people what to do, and they don't know what to do... Pinocchio, was a terrible motivational speaker. If you get your hands dirty, and do things right, and do things the way you did them the first time, they'll see their mistakes, and you being the boss, won't seem so bad, you fixed it, and that will enable them to do even more.

I would make a terrible motivational speaker because, I'm an asshole, and you are an asshole, you have to learn to be an asshole everyone likes. You have to learn how to use being just an asshole to use the internet and communicate with assholes.

If I were a motivational speaker, do you know what kind of music would be playing when I walked up on stage? The Imperial March.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bzWSJG93P8[/youtube]

Built my kit, loaded the firmware, sliced with Slic3r and it printed on size first print, PEEK Fan snuggly slide into place and clamped up on the Hot End.

That was 10kg of filament ago, still on size. Changed the Delta Correction (Horizontal Radius), still on size. Uploaded latest Repetier, still on size. Stayed at a Holiday Inn, still on size.

Something is incorrect in your setup or in the Repetier setup where you define which printer you have.

As encouragement however you should go ahead and blaze a new trail it is likely easier for you than comparing your firmware settings to the info in the manual or posting your info here for someone to scan for you.

Whales?

Flavored Coffee wrote:I think your hand on, in this situation, have been allot more hands off and over confidence kills whales. Okay, why do they beach themselves? It's not because, there's more water. Their brains are so big, that if we decrypt their language, they'd still be talking about dinosaurs. Consider this, their brain is so big, we could crawl into their skull. What would you be talking about, if all you could do is talk. Okay, I've heard of a whale dying, and then a bunch of whales beach themselves. Okay, that was a UFO cult.

This has to be the most bizarre paragraph I've read today...

(well, actually that honor goes to timecube.com... the internet is a strange beast.)

Ok, well, second most bizarre.

Rather than try to help fix your printing issues, which you seem determined to forge your own path, I'll help you along with this.

1. Over confidence does not kill whales.
2. The most accepted reason why they beach themselves is because they get lost, sick, or confused. Or are simply cover ups for washed-up mermaids.
3. A large brain has nothing to do with the ability to remember dinosaurs. Unless whales pass down their memories with traditional story-telling (or an undiscovered written language), a whale lifespan is much too short for the whale to have been living in prehistoric times.
4. The sperm whale's brain is only 5 times as heavy as a human's with a volume of only 8,000cm^3. The human body's average volume is 66,400cm^3. However, this is plausible if you count other body parts such as the jaws.
5. The UFO cult is TRUE

I finally finished answering and editing my message.

My first ringtone was Journey, "Anyway you want it"
the next was the Beatles, "Revolution"
and now, it's live long, die young, or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bzWSJG93P8

What the hell, I look just like him.

Flavored Coffee wrote: I would measure from each axis of the tripod, and do things the way trig works. Don't look at a short cut, just do the math, and make sure the program follows the right order of operations. It works, and I'm not complaining. I'm just sharing my modifications. Considering that it's open source, doesn't make you an idiot. I can see your frustration. You've done everything right before, and set a high bar for yourself. You think I tweaked something but, have you built your kit lately. I think your hand on, in this situation, have been allot more hands off and over confidence kills whales. Okay, why do they beach themselves? It's not because, there's more water. Their brains are so big, that if we decrypt their language, they'd still be talking about dinosaurs. Consider this, their brain is so big, we could crawl into their skull. What would you be talking about, if all you could do is talk. Okay, I've heard of a whale dying, and then a bunch of whales beach themselves. Okay, that was a UFO cult. Don't let your junk get worked up about this, it's just a printer, and we're not fighting over it.

I got one of the very last v1 kits (they announced v2 before I finished my build back in the first quarter of this year). The v2 kit was designed to be easier to assemble than the v1 kit, even.

Here's why I'm frustrated with you:

1) This forum has a lot of smart people who have successfully built their own printers, made improvements, and helped troubleshoot other folks' printers. Because a lot of us have seen where things can go wrong, we know some logical starting points. That's why I asked you to post your EEPROM settings from Repetier as well as your Configuration.h file in one of your other threads as well as perform that simple homing test. Between those things, we can hone in on whether your problems are electrical, programming, or mechanical in nature. I've given you plenty of s--t (and I've been diplomatic - I have a very very low tolerance for idiots), but we can help if you actually answer the questions we're asking.
2) You've demonstrated in the past your propensity to not follow directions between putting parts on your printer backwards, not following the simple calibration sequence that's been tried and proven by many builders, etc. So, if you're unwilling to listen to a simple and reasonable request that's made with the intent of helping you get a working printer without having to screw about with scaling hacks and futzing about with CAD files, you're wasting everyone's time, and the $1000+ you spent on this printer. Mr. Eastwood dealt in lead. I deal in data, and we need data to fix your printer.

Your choice.